On a blisteringly hot day in July of 2003, I moved to New York City along with a college friend. Our apartment building, once a warehouse for trolley cars, was located on Bergen Street in Brooklyn near the bourgeoning Smith Street. After several hours of sweat-laden furniture hauling, we decided to check out the ‘hood. Round the corner was nothing short of a dream. The streets were filled with golden sand and multiple games of
pétanque were underway. The teams were made up of neighborhood people; barely dressed, thin, tanned, and chain smoking. Wobbly grills, layered with kabobs and whole fish, lined the street, adding sweet-smelling smoke to the hot air. Pots of mussels steamed in garlic and liquor sat on tables for the picking. A 12-piece band in three-piece suits belted ragtime songs into the crowd. Mouths were stained red with cheap French wine and it wasn’t even noon. I looked to my roommate, a smile on my face and said, “We’re home.”
Bastille Day is celebrated on Smith Street each year outside of Bar Tabac, where locals celebrate the rushing of the Bastille and French liberation. It’s also an excuse to drink before noon and throw heavy objects with strangers.
Steamed Mussels in a Garlic Aioli Sauce
1 cup aioli (mayo, 1 clove minced garlic and a good squeeze of lemon: blend)
1 tablespoon butter
2 cloves garlic
1 onion
2 tomatoes, crushed
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 bottle white wine (find out which is best)
A splash of Pernod
3 pounds mussels
Ideally, you have a large cast-iron skillet with a cover for these babies, but if not, a big ol’ pot will do. Heat the vessel on medium and melt the butter. Add the onions, garlic, tomato and salt. Cover and let cook until soft. Add the white wine and Pernod and bring to a boil. (Remember that alcohol is flammable so perform this last step away from the stove.) Add the mussels and cook until they open. (Discard those that don’t.) Remove them to a bowl, leaving the liquid. Add a ladle full of the liquid to the aioli, whisking non-stop. Then whisk the aioli back into the liquid and pour it over the mussels. Serve.
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