Autumn conjures up happy thoughts of my father and I waltzing through an auburn forest with shotguns slung over our shoulders and pheasants on the wing. Clusters of wild mushrooms stop my dad in his tracks, as he insists on carefully unearthing them for later identification. We then retreat to our open kitchen, masterminding our first autumn feast. He tends to the pheasants, preparing them for a tender roast. I roll out pastry dough for thick-crusted apple pie. All the while, we sip calvados, awakening our autumn palates.
I’m through with summertime and all of its supposed glee. The after-work summer cocktail hour has depleted my funds and crippled my short-term memory. I just want to stay in for a change, cuddle up with my non-existent boyfriend and sip something warm and alcohol-free. After the oppressive heat of late July, I imagine you’re all with me. I’m ready to wear a fleece and hear leaves crunch beneath my boots. Already, the Avenues are lined with mannequin in fall vests and wooly pants — summer is so last season.
The First Autumn Feast
(Feeds four)
You’ll need a heavy, shallow roasting pot
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
8 strips bacon
2 pheasants, plucked and cleaned
1 yellow onion, peeled and diced
3 cups sauerkraut
1 bouquet garni (thyme, a bay leaf and five
black peppercorns tied up in cheesecloth)
1 bottle of dry white Alsatian wine
4 lady apples, cored
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Wrap each bird in four strips of bacon. On the stovetop, warm the roasting pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter. Sear the birds, one at a time, until golden brown. After you brown the bird, degrease the pan (otherwise there is way too much bacon fat). Transfer them to a cooling rack and let rest. Then add the onion to the pot and cook over low heat until soft. Add the bouquet garni and the sauerkraut and let simmer for 10 minutes. Pour in the white wine and bring to a boil. Let reduce for another 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and stir. Place the pheasants on the kraut and nestle the apples around them. Place in the oven for 20 minutes or so. Carve the birds and equally distribute the other goods into four portions.
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